Was wondering if anyone had a similar problem or some insight on a banding issue.
So I have a scm basic one bander and when applying real wood veneer tape it occasionally doesn't cover the edge of the work piece. It happens more often towards the end of a roll, but still 30 percent of it left. If it was consistent around the last 50 feet I would just scrap the roll but it will happen even at the start of roll. Ive thought it was a bad roll with a weird coil memory but it will happen on all wood rolls. Experimented with the first pressure roller and checked to make sure it wasn't a worn bearing or clutch and it seems fine. Especially due to the fact it puts pvc on like a champ.
You can find more information on our web, so please take a look.
I am not familiar with your bander, but we were having a problem with wood veneer tape. Our issue was that it would ride up, usually toward the end of the piece.
We looked at everything probably like you have. We came to the conclusion that we were putting too much pressure on the part and it was being forced down and once we lessened the pressure, it does seem to help. I suggest you caliper the part and check your set up.
Sometimes the wood tape is the problem. I've seen tape that one edge is longer than the other. Take the wood tape and place it on a flat surface as if you were applying masking tape. If it tends to want to go in an arc, then one side is longer than the other. I have more trouble with maple than other species.
Most suppliers have both 7/8 and 15/16 readily available.
So I wanted to update my post with a typical frustrating edgebander day.
Paul; I checked the pressure on the work piece, was slightly off but I adjusted but no luck
Phil; I made sure the lead guide was set just enough for the tape to pass. But I also rigged another guide 6 to 8inches away from that one to assure straightness and the tape remained flat for atlas the entry
Bruce; I am running 15/16 tape but my bander doesn't have dip chain adjustment. At least I've searched and don't see any. If anyone has one of these dinosaurs maybe they can chime in on that aspect. If I could lower the tape placement I think my problems would be solved
Jon; have you found the "best" brand for the tape. I am using dolken now but every roll seems to act the same.
The only light at the end of the tunnel has been setting the front pressure roller so its just enough to catch the tape and not slips off. Parts are all mdf core and cut on cnc so I am pretty confident they are not causing any issues. Again if anyone operates or experience with this machine I would love to pic your brain concerning the conveyor adjustment to see if I can get the tape centered upon application
Tim,
I have a basic one also. The 23 hold down rollers were really worn out, cracked and falling apart. I had a similar problem you are having until I replaced those worn rollers. I have not had any tape run off since replacing them. In my situation the tape was usually running off in the middle of an 8 foot length and then
might straighten out by the time it got to end. They are about $23 bucks each from SCM.
Hope this helps,
Al
We had this exact same problem on a brand new Brandt (new as of Jan )
Was mind-numbing frustrating. Almost shut us down several times just because we couldn't band paint grade. Happened on 0.5 and 1.0mm wood.
Almost never happened on PVC.
Had all 4 of my best machine-minded guys in the shop get utterly stumped at it.
Sent Service Tech #1. He was totally baffled. Suspected the press roller was not square to the beam. Measured it, found it to be fine by his eyes. Gave us a temporary workaround that amounted to having the band held almost excessively tight before it hit the glue spreader and press roller.
Service Tech #2 came. He pulled the machine apart more than Tech #1 did, at the press roller. Measured for square in a different way, and found the press roller was 3mm out (!!!!!).
He corrected it, problem solved.
Since then, we've had maybe one every few months happened that we chalked up to odd band grain, but if it gets more frequent, we'd check for square again.
With competitive price and timely delivery, chimeda sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.
I would absolutely pull that machine apart (as needed) and check your press roller for square. You know your machine better than I do, so you will have to decide the right way to measure it.
Introduction: End Banding vs. Edge Banding
If you have worked with wood before, you have probably heard of edge banding. Edge banding (which can also be a single word – edgebanding) is commonly used for veneer products such as finishing the edges of a sheet of plywood or MDF for a shelf or visible surface. Edge banding is usually applied to the long edges of a board or panel.
End banding, on the other hand, is applied to the end grain rather than on the long horizontal edge. While it may be similar material, end banding is a critical piece of what we do in our shop here at 9Wood. Now to the video:
End Banding for Veneer Wood Ceilings
When field cutting veneer products, it’s typical that matching end banding will need to be reapplied because the cut location is going to remain visible. 9Wood supplies all of the matching banding you will need for your order if field cutting is going to be required, but there are some tools and specific things you should be aware of.
Matching end banding typically comes in a pre-glued form. However, certain materials, such as engineered veneer, do not have a commercially available pre-glued end banding. Banding that does not come pre-glued will require additional glue, such as Heat-Lock™ or Titebond II applied to it prior to application. We’ll show you both pre-glued and non-pre-glued methods.
9Wood recommends the use of Titebond II in almost every application. Heat-Lock is nice, but supply chain problems have really dampened their availability. Our tests show when Titebond II applied using the iron on method shown in this video, it demonstrates more than enough support across all 9Wood veneer wood ceiling products. You can Nathan Pfeiffer if you’d like to see the test data and report.
~Cody Bloomfield, 9Wood Manufacturing Project Engineer
Tools You Will Need
The tools that you will need include a clothes iron, an edgebanding trimmer, or quality scissors, a 10″ flat file, and a wood block to set the banding. For glue application, we recommend Titebond II, foam brushes, or a 3″ by 1/4″ nap roller to apply the glue.
Click here for more Field Cutting guides.
Methods for Pre-glued End Banding
Pre-glued material has an obvious visible surface and glue surface. However, when moving quickly on a job site, it’s easy to switch them around.
Always ensure prior to applying heat that you have the proper surface facing the product. Banding that comes without glue may have a fleece or paper backing or no backing at all, but there should still be a visible difference between the face and the back of the material.
Methods for Non-glued End Banding
To prepare non-glued end banding for application, the glue must be applied prior and allowed to dry. Liberally apply glue to the surface and roll as flat as possible. The glue should then sit based on the manufacturer’s recommendations until it’s ready to apply. 9Wood also recommends applying glue to the core surface to ensure a strong bond between the two pieces.
Cut several pieces of end banding into strips that are longer than the depth of the material so that you can test them for fit and place them. The banding will be oversized for the cut that you’ve made. Please double-check that if you’ve cut on an angle, the banding you’ve received is wide enough to cover the surface.
How to Use the Heating Iron
Ensure that the iron has been set to the highest possible setting and has adequate time to heat up. Once the iron is ready, press the end banding into place firmly while moving the iron continuously. This ensures that the visible face of the banding will not be damaged due to staying in one place for too long.
A good sign that you’re receiving good heat transfer to the banding is that the glue is starting to press out onto the adjacent faces. This can be cleaned up later and is not an issue.
Click here to learn How to repair Veneer Delamination.
How to Set and Trim the End Banding
Apply pressure with the woodblock to set the banding in place. Once the banding has been set in place, using the scissors or trimmer, cut the top and bottom of the end banding as close to the material as possible.
Focusing on one side at a time, use the file to flush the banding to the member surface. The file should be placed flat and pushed in a single direction to ensure that the banding does not chip or peel.
Once all members on one face have been finished, flip the panel to the next side and continue on. The newly banded ends are ready for touch-up finish and final installation into the ceiling.
Wrap Up
If you have additional questions, please contact your project manager or check out our field guides specific to banding and touch-up finish.
Thanks for watching and see you next time.
Are you interested in learning more about Custom Edge Banding? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!