What is Safety Valve Gas Stove and Why Do We Use Them?

28 Jul.,2025

 

How Does A Gas Oven Work? - Appliance Parts Experts

Gas ranges and ovens manufactured today are actually very safe. That's because unlike in the past where most gas ranges and wall ovens used a freestanding pilot light, today's gas ovens rely on an oven safety valve that will not permit gas to flow to the burner unless the igniter is glowing red producing enough heat to ignite the gas when it reaches the igniter. And of course, the oven ignitor will not glow red unless there is electricity available. In the past when you had a power failure you could turn on your oven to heat the kitchen. But with today's modern ranges and ovens that is not possible. Let's look at how a gas oven works.

The main components of a gas oven system are the safety valve, the burner assembly, the igniter, and some form of control. The control can either be a thermostat that we all are accustomed to, or an electronic control.

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The Burner Assembly

The burner is simply an aluminum tube that has been machined and drilled with precise outlets spread along the length of the tube to allow the flame to burn from one end of the burner, sometimes in the front and down the other side. Most of the time the burner assembly has a bracket attached where the ignitor is mounted. This maintains the proper distance between the ignitor and the burner assembly to ensure proper ignition of the gas. The burner assembly sits under a flame spreader that is a heavy piece of metal (not aluminum) designed to distribute the heat evenly throughout the oven cavity.

The Gas Oven Ignitor

Ignitors used on gas ovens today need to be able to handle very high temperatures. They are made of silicon carbide making them capable of dealing with the intense heat. They are called ignitors but in reality they are electrically in the circuit anytime the burner is burning not just at ignition. Electrically the igniter is in series with the oven safety valve.

The Oven Safety Valve

Oven safety valves used on today's modern gas ranges are designed to prevent gas from flowing to the burner assembly in the event that the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas, or if no electricity is present. Inside the oven safety valve is a strip called a bimetal that when not heated forces the gas valve closed. As mentioned before the igniter is electrically in series with the oven safety valve. Electricity flows from the control whether that be a thermostat or an electronic control whenever the oven is requesting a higher temperature. The electricity enters one side of the safety valve passing through the bimetal. When it comes out the other side it passes directly through the oven ignitor. As the oven ignitor heats up its resistance goes down causing the current flow in the circuit to increase. The increase in current flow within the circuit heats the bimetal inside the oven safety valve causing it to flex just enough to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. Once the gas passes through the burner assembly and comes in contact with the now glowing red hot ignitor it ignites. As long as electricity is flowing through the igniter and the igniter is drawing sufficient current, the bimetal in the oven safety valve will stay flexed open allowing gas to flow.

The amount of current draw within this circuit is determined by the resistance of the igniter. All oven igniters are matched to the oven safety valves by the manufacturer of the oven. It is extremely important that you do not mix and match igniters with different oven safety valves. Always use the model number of the oven or range and select the oven igniter and safety valve recommended by the manufacturer.

And finally, it is possible for an oven ignitor to glow red and still be defective. That's because the resistance of the ignitor is what determines whether or not gas will flow from the oven safety valve. If the resistance of the oven ignitor is only down slightly, it can still glow red but not draw enough current to allow the oven safety valve to open giving the illusion that it is not defective.

Gas Safety Valves | Desiree's O'Keefe & Merritt Stove

Safety valves. It took me a little while to figure out how they worked, what their true purpose was.  But let’s start with the outside of the stove. There’s a “CP” logo. That stands for “Certified Performance” and is a trademark by the Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association (GAMA) that ensures that your stove meets certain high standards, like the stove’s oven/broiler safety systems. My OKM vintage gas stove has safety valves and connected thermocouples for a safer operation of the oven and broiler.

What it means is if, for any reason, the gas flow to the stove stops while the oven or broiler burners were on, in addition to the burners going out the pilot flame would go out. That would cool down the thermocouple probe which sits in the pilot flame. When the thermocouple is not hot enough, it signals the safety valve to close, which blocks gas from flowing to the burners.

Seems silly. If the gas is off, why worry about gas to the burners?

WHY!

Prior to safety systems existing, when these stoves were being produced, gas distribution was not always reliable. Sometimes, the gas supply would die out, shutting off the flames. Then after a little while, the gas would come back on.

Unlike the cooktop burners, the oven burner is hidden. If say, a bread baker were only using the oven at that time the gas supply stopped then started again, she or he might not have realized what happened. It was possible the baker might open the oven to check,  realize the flame had gone out and try to relight the manually lit oven with a match.

Without a safety system, the oven chamber could have filled up with a dangerous level of raw gas. Lighting an oven that was already full of raw gas…

With a safety system, when the gas flow to the stove was re-established to the entire stove,  the safety valve would have prevented the raw gas from filling up the oven or broiler chambers because the valve closed when the pilot light went out.

THAT WAS THEN. WHAT NOW?

These days, gas distribution is pretty reliable. Most often safety valves can seem to be a problem for three reasons: a) after the gas has been shut off from the stove (so the stove can be safely repaired or relocated), b) when the thermocouple bi-metal’s charge dwindles and dies, c) when the safety valve loses its magnetic charge and cannot stay open.

When my gas stove was moved into my kitchen, I needed to perform a manual reset of the two safety valves so I could test the oven and broiler. When the stove was disconnected from the previous owner’s gas line, that killed the pilot flames which cooled the thermocouples which closed the safety valves.

Each time I worked on my stove’s major systems, I’d shut off the gas to the stove. To restart the oven and broiler burners, I’d have to manually reset the safety valves if I wanted the oven and broiler to auto light again.

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LIGHTING THE BURNERS

Lighting instructions on an O’Keefe & Merritt broiler door. They aren’t exactly clear.

The standard process I have gone through to reset a fully functional safety system:

  1. Made sure the pilot flame is on and the thermocouple probe is in that flame. The heat causes the thermocouple to charge and send a signal to the safety valve. The signal cannot open the safety valve, but it can only keep it open. If the pilot is not lit, I’d light it and wait about a minute for it to warm up enough to signal the safety valve.
  2. Propped open the cooktop lid to access the safety valve(s).
  3. Turned on oven/broiler gas.
  4. Pushed and held in the red button on the safety valve. Pushing the button manually opens the safety valve, allowing the gas to flow to the oven/broiler burner. Once the gas flow reached the burner, the pilot flame would ignite the oven burner.
  5. Released the button on the safety valve. When everything worked properly, button would return to its original position, but the safety valve would stay open, because the thermocouple sent a signal for it to stay open. Big happy dance.
  6. If the oven burner shut off after that process, my first hope was the thermocouple signal was too weak to keep the safety valve open. Time for a new thermocouple. Relatively speaking, an inexpensive and easy task. Or the safety was on the fritz. Major $$$ pout!

If you have a multimeter with a DC volt scale, you can use that to test your thermocouple’s charge. When heated it generates a DC voltage of approximately 25 – 30 millivolts.

VARIOUS SAFETY VALVE DESIGNS

There are many different safety valve model for major gas appliances like stoves, water heaters and furnaces, but they all have the same purpose – to prevent unbridled raw or uncombusted gas. Their designs and features have evolved over the years. If you’re trying to find a replacement safety valve for your stove, you don’t have to necessarily get an original unit.

But you do need to make sure the replacement valve meets all the critical requirements. For example, the gas line openings need to be the match the diameter of the gas lines in your stove, it needs to have correct port for the thermocouple, it needs to fit the opening of the previous unit, etc. There are workarounds for most of that, but it involves plumbing adapters, additional gas lines and/or plumbers.

When my old gas furnace safety died, troubleshooting pointed to the safety valve as the trouble. I disconnected it and took it to a local appliance parts shop. Thankfully, the owner recognized my old no-longer-available furnace safety valve and knew which updated model would work.

Below are the safeties I’ve seen in the OKMs I’ve rescued.

There are a few more vintage safety valves posted on TOAC’s website.

Robertshaw Gas Valve -801 Safety Series Gas Valve Head

The Robertshaw® Series Thermomagnetic Safety Valve is a control used to cut off the flow of gas to the burner in the event of a pilot outage. The magnet assembly is energized by voltage generated by a thermocouple that is heated by the pilot flame. When this flame is extinguished, the thermocouple voltage decreases until a spring overcomes the magnetic force and closes off both the pilot and main gas. This control can be used for commercial and residential ovens, infrared heaters, chicken and pig brooders, recreational vehicle gas appliances and many more applications requiring automatic safety valves.

Features and Benefits

  • 300°F (149°C) ambient temperature rated and 350°F (177°C) versions available
  • J models available with separate pilot inlet/outlet tube connections
  • K models are pilot outlet only
  • Compatible with other Robertshaw models such as the BJWA, FD, and GS series thermostats
  • RoHS compliant
  • Series Application: TS11J J Magnet Head Only – Inlet and Outlet
  • Ambient Temperature: 32°F to 300°F (0°C to 149°C)
  • Body: Inlet and Outlet NA
  • Head Pilot Inlet and Outlet: Kit, 1/8″ Pipe, 3/16″ Tubing, 1/4″ Tubing
  • Maximum Pressure: 0.5 PSI

-112 Safety Series Gas Valve Body

Safety Series Gas Valves

The Series Replacement Body is used with the Series Replacement Magnet Heads in TS Automatic Safety Valve applications. Note arrows showing direction of gas flow.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: When a new replacement body is ordered a new safety magnet must also be used. Order separately, see Magnet Heads.

https://www.robertshaw.com/Products/Cooking/Gas-Valves/-112/?cat=

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