Manual transmission basics
For many car enthusiasts, there is nothing like a manual transmission. Pushing down on the clutch and shifting through the gears is a rush that an automatic transmission just can’t provide. While your clutch is designed to be durable and long lasting, it is a part that can wear out.
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For the uninitiated, a vehicle with a standard transmission typically features a pedal to the left of the brake, which is known as a clutch. The driver must engage the clutch to shift the vehicle through the gears.
The average lifespan of a clutch is anywhere between 20,000 to 150,000 miles. Luckily, your clutch will likely give you ample notice that something is going wrong. Don’t get left at the side of the road with a vehicle that won’t shift into gear. Read on to learn the signs and symptoms of a failing clutch.
Soft or spongy clutch pedal
If you find that your vehicle is hard to shift and doesn’t engage smoothly, you might have a failing clutch. You are most likely to notice this when putting the car in reverse and first gear.
Slipping
This is exactly what it sounds like. When under stress, it may feel like the transmission slips out of gear for no reason. This is a classic symptom of a failing clutch that needs to be attended to.
Burning smell
A burning smell many times goes hand-in-hand with a failing clutch. The friction from the clutch slipping causes the unmistakable odor.
Noises
If the parts in your clutch aren’t working properly, it can cause a variety of noises. These noises can come from a loose component hitting other parts or it could be a result of parts sticking together and pulling apart.
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Sticky or stuck pedal
If you notice any of these symptoms in your vehicle, making an appointment with your trusted mechanic is your next step. Driving with a failed clutch can be dangerous, as when a clutch goes bad it can break apart, leaving you without a vehicle. Your mechanic will be able to make a proper diagnosis and recommended repair to get you back on the road.
Making your clutch last
Your driving habits play a big role in the lifespan of your clutch. The less stress you put on your clutch, the longer it will last. Follow these simple guidelines to get the most out of your clutch.
One of the first things you were likely told when learning to drive a stick shift was to avoid riding the clutch. That is still good advice. Don’t use the clutch to control your vehicle’s speed. Riding the clutch is hard on the part and can lead to premature failure.
If you are sitting at a traffic light or in line at the drive-thru lane and expect to wait more than 10 seconds, don’t use the clutch to keep your car in a stopped position. Take the car out of gear, engage the brake and put it in neutral until you’re ready to take off. This seemingly small action can help save wear and tear on your clutch.
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The content contained in this article is for entertainment and informational purposes only and should not be used in lieu of seeking professional advice from a certified technician or mechanic. We encourage you to consult with a certified technician or mechanic if you have specific questions or concerns relating to any of the topics covered herein. Under no circumstances will we be liable for any loss or damage caused by your reliance on any content.
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Grey
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Topic: clutch rebuilding questions Posted: 14 Dec. at 2:18am
In the moment, I forgot to mark the pressure plate alignment to the flywheel prior to disassembly. What are my options upon reassembly? Also how do i adjust the fingers? they seem to be set very differently from each other. I know the service manual suggests making some kind of tool, but I'm hoping there's a better way. I'm replacing the throwout bearing, just because, and the friction disc because...
if theres any tips at this point that i should keep in mind or any other parts i should consider replacing, please let me know! Thanks to all. Ive gotten this far reading past posts but after a day of wrenching, ive made a mistake or two
Lew Ladwig
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 2:49am
I almost always reface a flywheel after a clutch goes bad. I usually get a lot of miles out of a clutch because of that. I got 190k miles on my powerstroke clutch. Anyway, I would pull the flywheel, have it ground, buy a new clutch disc, have the pressure plate ground too. Also replace the pilot bearing. Be sure to give it a long soak in oil. Throwout bearing needs replaced also but make sure your new one is a good one. I have bought NAPA ones that were junk and you could feel them grind in the hands. Once you bolt it all together make a small gauge out of a piece of plastic to measure the finger height. Adjust them all to spec. It is not too hard to get it all working well. Good luck,Lew
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 2:55am
I personally would as suggested have the flywheel surfaced, And I would buy a complete Disc, Pressure plate, throw out bearing kit. Why replace part of it and risk having to go back in to fix something that was in your hand to begin with.As to clocking the pressure plate to the flywheel unless the rotating assembly was balanced as a unit (they were not originally) the effort would be worthless.
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 3:42am
If you are asking how do you recenter the clutch? You will need a clutch aligning tool or an extra transmission input shaft to recenter it. An alignment tool has a tapered sleeve that fits on a shaft that fits into the pilot bearing then the taper slides up to center the clutch disc. Some clutch kits come with an alignment tool in them it usually looks like a chopped of input shaft with a ring on the end.When you go to put in the clutch make sure the clutch sides onto the input splines easely. Make sure if you replace the pilot bearing it fits the end of the input shaft put a dab grease in the pilot bearingmake sure the flywheel and pressure plate are clean and oil and grease free I use carburetor spray cleaner and a clean shop towel or clean paper towel to wipe it off. also if I were you I would replace the pressure plate and get the flywheel resurfaced. Do it right now so you don't have to do again next week.
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BrianJ
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 5:36am
Get the clutch kit from Rock Auto.
Comes with an Aetna USA throw out bearing.
It's the same on most sell at 150% more too
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 12:48pm
Well i guess that settles it. Flywheel is coming off to get resurfaced. As far as my question about marking the pressure plate and the flywheel, on page d-92 of the Willys mechanics manual -
"Mark both the pressure plate and the flywheel so that the assembly may be installed in the same position after the repairs are completed." I take it that may be old info. As long as I use an alignment tool, don't worry about it, right?
Also, what is the pilot bearing? Is that the "bushing" I keep seeing listed as a "flywheel bushing" located at the end of the input shaft in the flywheel?
I can't seem to find the
clutch parts using RockAuto search by make and model. Does anyone have a link?
I noticed also, from a midwestjeepwillys site, that some new pressure plates dont have any adjustment on the fingers. Mine has small hex head screws. Are the new ones non adjustable? Thoughts on keeping and adjusting the old one vs installing new non adjustable?
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 1:49pm
if you haven't cleaned anything, there might be a chance that you find a pattern in the grime in where the plate mounted to the flywheel. Good thing is, there are only 3 different ways it could of came off.
And yes the bushing is the one at the center of the flywheel. I has to be pressed in and out and then the ID reamed to size.
BrianJ
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 2:34pm
Here's the clutchUse 5% Off Discount Code:
Paste it in the 'how did you hear about us' box at checkout.
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 2:37pm
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BrianJ
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 2:43pm
Here's an alignment too, $10 free shipping...or use an old input shaft.When I had the flywheel surfaced, they pressed in the new bushing for me. Cost was $15 or $20. But finding a place to do it, took about half an hour and another half hour drive. Yellow pages for automotive machine shop, or call around and see who the local shops use.As I said, it's a USA made Aetna bearing, and I believe the clutch disc is Korea. It was better than the Chinese crap I ordered from Advanced Auto though (Perfection brand).
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Posted: 14 Dec. at 4:43pm
I just ordered a clutch from rock auto. Its a great price.
Thanks for the timely post and discount code
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Grey
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Posted: 15 Dec. at 2:44am
thanks for responses to all. I have another question though. My machinist can surface the flywheel and press in the new pilot bearing. BUT is he going to need to know a diameter for reaming? my transmission is still in the jeep. Is it as easy as taking a measurement with calipers and passing this on to the machinist?
Also, does the pressure plate from rockauto have any adjusters? The picture doesnt look so. The price is hard to beat. If I can just toss that in instead of making a tool, resurfacing the pressure plate, adjusting it, etc, I'd be ok with that. Is it that simple? Just the friction disc is 59.95 through other places. The whole shebang is 84.79 at rockauto. Thanks for the heads up!
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Posted: 15 Dec. at 3:03am
If you've not done this before, check this link out for the flywheel alignmentI don't believe it's adjustable. I didn't adjust anything on the fingers, and didn't have any problems with it. It'll grab nicely. I've chirped tires in 2nd :)For the bushing, I think it's just pressed in. I'm not aware, and haven't read anything about reaming, but maybe someone more experienced than I am will give you an answer.Also, check your bellhousing runout and try to get the 3/8 dowel bolts if they're missing.
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Bruce W
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Posted: 15 Dec. at 3:17am
Do it right; Do it once. Drive happy and don't look back. If you try to cut corners you will be unhappy. Have the flywheel resurfaced and replace everything else. Everything. Anything less is asking for a clutch that chatters and/or slips and/or grabs. Or all of the above. I have never had to ream a pilot bushing. I have had a couple that were a little tight, but they've always worn in. Yes, just measure the pilot of the input shaft and give that measurement to your machinist. If it needs to be reamed, he will know how much. If I bought a clutch kit that included a pressure plate that needed adjusting after installation, it would go back in the box and to where I got it. A new or reman clutch kit should include a pressure plate that is set up and ready to go. Many plates available today are not adjustable anyway. BW
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I have seen new pressure plates that were way out of whack. At lead lay it on a smooth bench and check it before you toss it in. Like Bruce said, do it right and once. No one enjoys a slipping clutch 50 miles back in the woods.
Grey
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Posted: 15 Dec. at 11:37pm
Flywheel dowel bolt question - mine seem kind of pooched. One is ok, the other spins and was somewhat difficult to get a open end wrench wedged behind it to get the nut off. My plan is to put this thing on an engine stand, flip it over and replace the rear main seal at the least. How much farther to get these dowel bolts out? This is my first time doing something like this. Is it as simple as loosening or removing all the bearing caps enough to lift (engine upside down) the crank to get these out?
Edited by Grey - 15 Dec. at 11:44pm
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Posted: 16 Dec. at 1:38am