How to Save Money When Buying big truck brake drums

Meritor X30 and Stemco’s CentriFuse brake drums for long have successfully dominated the centrifugally cast brake surface inside a steel shell. It has been a patented technology which blocked new entrants. Now that the relevant patent(s) have expired there is a rush to produce these drums. DuraBrake has recently introduced a new lightweight steel shell brake drum to its current long list of all cast brake drum and Air Disc Brake Rotor part numbers. This brake drum is made using a formed steel outer shell for greater strength in which molten cast iron is poured in the shell spun centrifugally to ensure even distribution of the braking surface. Under these manufacturing conditions the cast iron and the steel shell form a metallurgical bond at the interface. The result is a lighter, stronger and safer brake drum. The steel shell is stronger than normal cast iron, so it prevents drum from shattering or falling apart in extreme circumstances. The steel shell also allows weight to be 15-20% lighter than a normal cast drum leading to better fuel mileage and increased payloads. 

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FEATURES AND BENEFITS

LIGHTWEIGHT – 91 lb. drum that is 15-20% lighter than a full weight cast drum.

LONGER LIFE – Superior heat dissipation, resulting in less brake fade and wear.

BALANCED – Drums balanced as a standard option

WARRANTY – 10-year warranty or wearable life

EAN supply professional and honest service.

INCREASED SAFETY – One-piece shell design means no welds in the steel shell. Steel shell with high strength shields drum from shattering or falling apart which can happen in cast brake drums when exposed to thermal shocks. Steel shell provides more resistance to heat cracks. Meets and exceeds FMVSS121 requirements

APPLICATION – Application for composite brake drum include original equipment, fleets and aftermarket replacement

COST SAVINGS – Fleet costs will be reduced due to higher fuel economy and profits will be increased by maximizing payloads. Breakthrough in processing and manufacturing makes our composite drums up to 30-40% less expensive than other composite drums currently on the market

COMPATIBILITY – Applications compatible with most common wheel end configurations

Material and shipping costs are two major cost components of the high-volume parts which has driven good US companies, to compete with offshore companies and to penetrate the market. This is particularly true where the volumes are high, margins very tight in the popular brake drum (16.5” by 7”) such as DuraBrake X (Gunite AX and X, Webb B and B, Meritor , KIC and and ) and a select few more part numbers. All suppliers have introduced reduced weight brake drums and called it value drum. Lowering the weight can solve the problem part of the way as with lower weight the overall integrity and strength of the drum is compromised. In addition to our common brake drum parts we produce over -part numbers of specialty brake drums which are generally higher in value and we also include spectrum of high and medium value rotors. We are now introducing composite brake drum which is made by spin casting in a steel shell. This process has been used for about two decades, but the high-volume applications are limited due to the high price. Now we have a breakthrough in cost saving which makes the application economical with better manufacturing and engineering. Steel shell makes the drum thinner, stronger and safer as the chances of shattering in use are significantly reduced. As the tooling cost is high, its application is limited mainly to the high volume 16.5” by 7” drum and a couple more as it is price sensitive. We can now reduce the price by 30 to 40% from a current composite drum based on application and quantity. Equivalent composite drum has reduction in weight by roughly 15 to 20% of cast drum while improving the performance and reliability. We have significantly narrowed the price difference between an all cast and composite brake drum. Now we have 20 to 30% increase in upfront cost (composite vs. cast drum) in return for savings in weight and performance based on volume purchase and shipping destination. In summary, the advantages of DuraBrake’s centrifugally fused cast iron drum in a steel shell include:

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• Total Cost: DuraBrake’s Metallurgically bonded composite brake drum approaches in cost to a heavier all cast brake drum with several engineering benefits of strength and safety. It is also easier to handle during shipping and installation.
• Safety: DuraBrake composite drum is safer to use as the steel shell limits the possibility of shattering in use. 
• Experience: The technology has been widely used and tested but its application is limited by higher tooling and part cost. Now the upfront prices are within striking range but cost savings from application makes the investment more economical. DuraBrake has resources at its disposal for customers who are new to Composite Brake Drum. This drum is widely used in OEM application when a standard 16.5” by 7” drum is required, and it is interchangeable in aftermarket application to replace an all cast brake drum.

So I just did brake shoe change and brake drums seem fairly shot !
After new shoes and hardware I get a slight squealing squeaky lope noise at a specific rotational point from the driver drum area as far as I can tell . It’s only when I’m 2-3mph in a parking lot or mostly faintly heard when making a turn which is weird .

I suspected it may be warped drum . I lifted the truck on jack stands with No suspension load and let wheels spin at idle and the noise is Not There . It is also not there at high speeds . Only under load , part of me said maybe on axle bearings are dry but I just changed the gear fluid and new diff cover it wasn’t dry , I have no evidence of axle seal leak drips .

The noise is only at a certain repetitive rotational point when the wheel is turning. So I assumed a warp area rubbing on new shoes . The e- brake was adjusted correctly the drum slips on with just enough contact to know it’s not loose or to hard to fit over the shoes .
My e- brake catches a lot sooner then before and it releases just fine I tested that as well with suspension off ground.
Aside from that unknown issue I’ve Assumed drums may be the best starting point . Ive changed a few sets in my time , but never thought much about quality if it even matters with aft market or oem.
Just thought I’d ask here if from one set to the next as far as durability/ wear / or rust preventative plays a part in what’s offered for 92-99 brake drums .
Anyways. I was leaning towards rock auto there is fvp, centric , ac Delco , bendix, durago. In plain sight quality all looks the same as far as specs sheet . Anyone tried specific brand over another and found any differences. I just planned on spraying them with a high temp brake caliper paint so not concerned with rust issue down the way. Mainly braking and machining quality . It’s 24$ bucks for duragos all the way to 83$ ac Delco

Hey, from past experance here, I noted u mentioned berrings, you can usually hear them. If the berring is worn, your seal will leak, your shoes will be wet. If so, make sure u check diff oil level. There were 2 different size drums for my 96 Cierra. I always try & use Delco, even if I have to save a little. GM truck=GM parts for me. Just putting that in here. Best of luck...

Ya I figured I’d ask I don’t usually ever spare much expense anywhere.. I know this by the fact I paid close to 100$ for Cunningham machined replacement door bushing and pins where-as most would buy the 10$ brass Napa replacements thinking it’s fine and find out they crumble 9/10 times ..

Sometimes you can get away with other brands depending on what the particular part does.. just an example of why I asked about drums . The only thing I can assume would be any different in a machined drum is the level or accuracy with the machining..

My diff fluids are all good no seal leaks .. I think I’m gonna take shot at the drums one was pretty scored up probably originals my shoes are 11” so the drums are 11.15” Drums and rotors all absorb heat during the braking process. Brakes work by friction, friction builds heat and heat builds in the rotors and drums and over time, they will warp and get high spots. It is the nature of the beast. In my years in shops, I have machined/turned a bunch of both. Nowadays, most shops do not have a brake lathe. Because of that their brake jobs always include new rotors or drums and even then, brand new does not mean perfectly flat or round. IMO, you should have done the wheel cylinders too. New drums and then burnish in the shoes properly. One thing/step that I see skipped or just not done because is an unknown, is cleaning and lubing the contact points at the backing plate where the shoes lay against when held in place by the hold down hardware. If the contact points have ridges worn in them and are small enough, you can grind them flat, clean and lube. If ridge is deep enough, the backing plate needs replaced. The contact points I talk about allow for smooth movement of the show across the backing plate and allow a good resettle when release brake pedal and return springs pull shoes back in place. Safety is most important when driving and brakes are where you don't cut corners. Seems you probably answered your own question. I hate squeeks, rattles, ticks and knocks. As a result the gods of mechanical maintenance grant me more than my share. In your case it will be a process of elimination. New drums are cheaper than bearings. I presume you checked wheels for vertical and horizontal movement and spun wheel. Still possible a bearing may need to have the car weight to act up. Utube, Rainman Ray is king on this diagnosis. His tricks are priceless. Would you believe front end noise could be caused by bad ball joints which he finds using big ass pliers. It is possible your techniques to find may not be correct.

As far as quality of parts. What's that? Parts have gone down as much come from China. As a result it is quite possible the GM OEMs may be the same as the no name part. Just got skunked on a Lincoln/Ford door regulator. These fail a lot so upon second failure I order OEM. Looking at both they were made on same assembly line with all kind of same markings. Only difference is double the price.

Drums and rotors all absorb heat during the braking process. Brakes work by friction, friction builds heat and heat builds in the rotors and drums and over time, they will warp and get high spots. It is the nature of the beast. In my years in shops, I have machined/turned a bunch of both. Nowadays, most shops do not have a brake lathe. Because of that their brake jobs always include new rotors or drums and even then, brand new does not mean perfectly flat or round. IMO, you should have done the wheel cylinders too. New drums and then burnish in the shoes properly. One thing/step that I see skipped or just not done because is an unknown, is cleaning and lubing the contact points at the backing plate where the shoes lay against when held in place by the hold down hardware. If the contact points have ridges worn in them and are small enough, you can grind them flat, clean and lube. If ridge is deep enough, the backing plate needs replaced. The contact points I talk about allow for smooth movement of the show across the backing plate and allow a good resettle when release brake pedal and return springs pull shoes back in place. Safety is most important when driving and brakes are where you don't cut corners.

I’ve only had the shoes on 3 days and wasn’t expecting to need drums that’s why I am right on top of it now ..and I agree with the contact points I did absolutely lube all of the shoe housing contact points on the backing plate ! But I didn’t take to much notice with contact point wear !
I will surely relook this over and consider the new backing plates . I shoulda coulda done new cylinders but with all things considered and the truck being rust free Cali under carriage as well as no Leaks and failures I passed on cylinders, because I am planning on little shops rear disc swap
The noise is from rotation not from brake shoe expansion, it may be also a spring from the new hardware spring kit possibly stretched in the wrong position not installed in wrong place but wrong position causing the drum to rub on one of the hardware springs ..so I can’t relate brake shoe contact point as the noise it’s much more pronounced considering the shoes don’t rotate only the drum.

I think I’ll resolve it with a pair or ac Delco drums and go back over spring placement hopefully

Seems you probably answered your own question. I hate squeeks, rattles, ticks and knocks. As a result the gods of mechanical maintenance grant me more than my share. In your case it will be a process of elimination. New drums are cheaper than bearings. I presume you checked wheels for vertical and horizontal movement and spun wheel. Still possible a bearing may need to have the car weight to act up. Utube, Rainman Ray is king on this diagnosis. His tricks are priceless. Would you believe front end noise could be caused by bad ball joints which he finds using big ass pliers. It is possible your techniques to find may not be correct.

As far as quality of parts. What's that? Parts have gone down as much come from China. As a result it is quite possible the GM OEMs may be the same as the no name part. Just got skunked on a Lincoln/Ford door regulator. These fail a lot so upon second failure I order OEM. Looking at both they were made on same assembly line with all kind of same markings. Only difference is double the price.

Agree even oem parts are gimmicky anymore I believe it I see it.
Hence the fairness in asking if it really matters what we pay$$ for a Brake Drum that basically only spins and only real necessary level of quality would be the fact if it’s machined properly ? With correct thickness ? or not etc.. that alone doesn’t always justify paying a huge price gap from ac delco to fvp parts for example if they’ or certain parts are relatively made the Same in the end .
Sometimes they are, but mostly they aren’t . I fully understand that cheap is cheap but these days ac delco isn’t what is used to be either …also as agreed.
I never cheap out on my trucks. I blow more unnecessary money than I outta usually. But drums was a necessary inquiry I felt like at least I may find feedback on limitations/faults or even positive notes from experience with one brand to the next.